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Vietnamese Religion

Thay Pagoda - an interesting attraction in Hanoi

Thay Pagoda (Chua Thay means the Pagoda of Master Tu Dao Hanh) has another old name: Huong Hai (Sea of Perfume), So De. Based on the historical document, its official name is Thien Phuc Tu (Pagoda of Celestial Bliss).

History of Thay Pagoda

According to the legend, the place had been an ascetic one for friar Tu Dao Hanh. The first construction dated back to the Xlth century. Rebuilt in the XVth century. At 30km from Hanoi, the pagoda is built at the foot of Mount Thay (or Sai Son, Son Tay) which has numerous grottos. In front of it is the Long Thieu lake with a pavilion in the middle made for water puppets.

Two covered bridges built in 1602 by the first Dr. Phung Khac Khoan (1528 – 1613). The one on the left (Nhat Tien) looks on the Tam Phu Taoist temple, built on an islet; that on the right (Nguyet Tien) leads to the upper pagoda on the mountain.

The main pagoda (Chua Ca) consists of three ranges of constructions built on an elevated basement and bordered with stones: the first is reserved for preliminary ceremonies (nha tien te). the second to the cult of Buddha, the third to that of Tu Dao Hanh.

 Architecture of Thay Pagoda

The roof is covered by big and thick tiles and rests on a frame of 4 big pillars and 12 small ones in precious Wood, all set on stone bases, the pieces of wood carry fine sculptures (dragon, unicorn, clouds, flames).

Inside the pagoda, there are three statues evoking three existences (metem-psychosis), Tu Dao Hanh on the left, a statue with movable legs, that of the friar; on the right, Tu Dao Hanh king by the name of Ly Thai Tong 1118 – 1138; in the middle, Tu Dao Hanh Buddha.’One should mention also the statues (1346) of parents of the friar, and that the files of the throne finely chiseled carry Confucian designs (hatchet of a wood cutter, dragons), Buddhists and Taoists (horn of rhinoceros, precious stones). The corridors on both sides of the pagoda shelter 18 Thuong To Truyen Dang and also baptized 18 La Han (Arhats).

 Besides, there is in the back a bell tower (a bell and a big drum of 1m5 diameter). Behind the upper pagoda (Chua Cao) is the Grotto Thanh Hoa (Metempsychosis of the Saint). A track goes up to the Grotto of Cac Co and the Grotto of Buddhas (Hang But Moc) bristled with stalagmites in form of Buddhas. At the top of Mount Sai Don, one can visit the Grotto of Wind (Hang Gio) the Sky Market (Cho Troi) filled with stones evoking stalls and chess trays.

 Long Tri Lake & Nguyet Tien Bridge

The myths and legends of famous monk Tu Dao Hanh in Thay Pagoda

The monk Tu Dao Hanh was born in 1072 under Ly dynasty.His life was attached with two famous pagodas in Hanoi : Lang Pagoda ( early time of his life) & Thầy Pagoda ( his religious life & his death).On the date of lunnar 7th March annually –the death day of the monk, both pagodas celebrated a big festival to pay tribute to him :

“ Remember the date of lunar 7th March.

People both take part in festivals in Lang & Thay pagoda”

His reputation did great memories in local people’s mind because of romantic stories about his great magic and kindness. He travelled around the regions helping people without asking for return. Finally, in order to lead his religious life profoundly, Tu Dao Hanh chose Sai Son mountain (its colloquial name is Thay mountain) to build up a small pagoda named Huong Hai (it was then changed into "Thầy" pagoda ). He passed away here in 1116,and accidentally in that year, King Ly Than Tong was born. The myth that King Ly Than Tong was the afterlife of Tu Dao Hanh has been rumored from this event. You can view two famous statues of Tu Dao Hanh monk in Thay temple : one of his real body mummified, another one is said to be his afterlife of reincarmation-the King Ly Than Tong.

Beautiful  ancient architectures & natural scenery in Thay Pagoda

Thay Pagoda is not only impressive  by the myths, but also charming for its ancient structures & natural beauty of mountains & caves.You will feel relaxed and be stunned by the perfect harmony of the surrounding landscapes and Vietnamese traditional architecture.

High Temple in Sai Son Mountain

On arrival, I bought an entrance ticket of 10.000 vnd, free walking around to get the general view of the pagoda. There are two main areas you can pay a visit : the lower pagoda- located in the foot of Sai Son mountain and the high pagoda situated inside Sai Son mountains!

The lower pagoda ( main one) was built up in 12thcentury, on the foot of mountains, including three temples : top pagoda, middle pagoda & bottom pagoda, which are interconnected by the roof system.The outer part ( bottom pagoda) is a place for offerings & ceremonies; the middle part (middle pagoda) is a place for worship of Buddha; and finally the inner part is a place to worship the monk Tu Dao Hanh with his famous statutes:one of his real mummified body, another one is said to be his afterlife of reincarmation-the King Ly Than Tong.

 Temple to worship gods

These fine wooden constructions are believed to be the head of the dragon.In front of them , there are a big lake called Long Tri as the dragon’s lake and a big yard as the dragon’s jaw. From this yard, you can view Thuy Dinh- the oldest water house you can find for famous water pupet show (the art invented by the monk Tu Dao Hanh in 11th century) and wark through two small tiled bridges (built 400 years ago) on the left and right wing of Long Tri lake : Nhat Tien  & Nguyet Tien ( considered as the dragon’s beards).

Finish with a visit to the lower pagoda, we follow Nguyet Tien bridge and trek  250 steps up to the high pagoda onto Sai Son mountain to worship Buddha. Behind the pagoda, is Thanh Hoa cave, in which Tu Dao Hanh did religious practices and passed away in 1116.Amazingly that you still can see the vestiges of footprints available on stones that locals try to touch for good luck & good health.On the cliff,there are many poems in Chinese carved and written by many poets of old times.On the top of the cave, standing a big banyan tree, whose roots drop down naturally as a screen to the cave’s door.

 Entrance to Thanh Hoa cave

If you like to do some more adventure, Cac Co limestone cave is a destination that you should spend time on discovering. Just from the high pagoda, you follow the steps along mountain side in 15 minutes to reach the cave's's entrance.Local people are famous with their saying : “the single girls should spend time visiting Cac Co cave, the single man should not forget Thay pagoda’s festival” as Cac Co cave was the place where men & women met and loved eachother.

The path leading to the cave is quite narrow, tight, slippery & dark, you need to use the torch to go inside (renting at the entrance). Must say it is worth paying a visit to this cave.The deeper you go inside, the more beautiful and surprised you will get thanks to its mystery and wonderful shapes of stalagmites & stalactites. Locals normally come here to praise for love & happiness for their family
How to get to Thay Pagoda?

Just 20km far from Hanoi center in the west , follow Lang-Hoa Lac highway until you view on the right a number of mountains jutting out from the farmland, likened to the body of a dragon, you just make a right turn about 2km to reach Thay temple (in Sai Son mountain, Quoc Oai district, Hanoi city)
 The gate to the high temple

You can take part in our day tour to Thay pagoda & Duong Lam ancient village with private tourguide & car.If you do it on your own, you can get a motobike or rent a private car with driver to Thầy Pagoda, Tay Phuong Pagoda, Van Phuc silk village & Duong Lam ancient village.It is a nice journey to enjoy peaceful villages, ancient architectures & friendliness of locals you meet on the way.

 

Summary and editing: Master Nguyen Thy Nga

Source
https://goldenholidaytravel.com/thay-pagoda-an-interesting-attraction-to-visit-in-hanoi.new
 https://www.vietvisiontravel.com/post/thay-pagoda-hanoi/
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